![]() If you’re unsure about this get a professional to check it first. Turn the gas on and check each connection for leaks using soapy water.Make sure your connections are tight and sealed with tape.Connect your hoses and shut off valve (if applicable) to the burner and gas bottle (I used a 4kg bottle due to the limited space).A couple of taps with a rubber mallet may be needed for this. Insert the burner into the cement top.Get someone to help you place the cement top on the frame.Be sure to get this right because the top weighs about 80kg and you don’t want to have to move it twice. Place the base in your desired position.Get a smoother surface and save yourself some hassle by using proper Formply. This worked sort of well, although when it came time to separating the main part of the mould it wouldn’t come off and I had to scrape out wood chips and sand the top. Note: I decided to use an old chip board sheet and some left overwater proofing paint (to create a smooth surface) to save money. A sample pot size (250ml) gave me 3 good coats. I used Crommelin Diamond Coat natural sealer. Once you are happy with the surface, seal the cement to protect from the elements.A light sand might be needed depending on how well the cement set and the mould came away.Peel away the sides, top and centre insert and flip your mould up the right way.Finally add some foam expansion joint filler along the top to make a good seal when the table top is laid on.Ĭomplete frame Etch primer applied Shiplap lining boards attached Access panel on one end Step 4.I did this by screwing the boards to some backings supports and gluing magnets to the back to attach to some brackets on the frame. Make a panel at one end of the frame to allow for the gas bottle to be removed and to connect your hoses and fittings.I attached the lining boards to the frame with some 30mm metal screws.The facade uses shiplap pine lining boards painted with exterior paint, the colour is colorbond ironstone.Spray the frame with some black etch primer to avoid any rusting.The pieces are held together with 50x50mm angle brackets, because I don’t own a welder or actually know how to weld.Considering the weight of the table top (about 80kg) I used some scrap 50x50mm and 50x100mm hollow steel.My frame is 1150x750X500 to give a 50mm over hang and have space underneath for the gas bottle. Determine your dimensions for the frame based on the size of your tabletop.Let the mould sit for 30mins and then repeat this to make sure no bubbles are left. Run a sander without paper along the outsides of the mould to release any air bubble and get the concrete into the corners.Spray the mould with WD-40 before putting the concrete in so it will remove it easier once cured.Run some silicone along the seams of the mould to prevent leaks and give the top smooth edges when set.Smooth out the cement with a trowel making sure it is pushed all the way to the edges and level.I didn’t use any steel reinforcement in this, but you can if you want. For my dimensions I used about 70kg of concrete, plus some Dulux black oxide colouring to give it a darker look. Mix some hi-strength concrete and pour into the completed mould.I used some 30mm pine off cuts double up to create the space in the middle for this). Be sure to leave a space for the insert and that it is centred in your mould. ![]() Mine is 1200x800x50 which gives enough space around the insert for drinks/food when not in use.
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